Pointe Shoe Prep
I received some questions this week about sewing and prepping shoes, so I'll attempt to answer those and include some additional information. During the week of September 1st-5th, I will be spending the first half of class making sure everyone knows how to sew their shoes, but here are some pointers for how it's done.
Elastic and Ribbons
Elastic should be 3/4" wide. Dancewear stores will typically give you enough to sew one elastic per shoe, unless you specify that you wish to "criss-cross" your elastics, in which case, you'll need double the amount.
Criss-crossing can help if you find that the heel of the shoe is slipping off with only one. Be advised that dance elastic is much stronger than what you will find at your local fabric store, and more readily comes in pointe shoe-appropriate colors. Melting the edges of your cut elastics will prevent fabric fraying, but don't let the elastic actually touch the flame--burnt elastic smells pretty nasty. Freed European Pink Elastic is my personal favorite, because I like my elastic strong, and it matches the peach color of most brands of professional mesh tights. There are many other equally excellent options out there, so check them out, as well.
Ribbons can be shiny, matte, elasticized--my only preference is that they are 1" wide. Some dancers like to use the same brand of ribbon as their shoes, which often is a good color match. You will want to cut the ribbon into four equal pieces, and melt the ends before you sew them near the side-seam of your shoe. Again, my personal choice is Freed European Pink Ribbon. I like the matte color, and the fabric is nice quality.
For those with short Achilles tendons, it is recommended that you try ribbons that have a little give in them. Examples of these are Bloch Elastorib, Bunheads Flexers, etc. Prima Soft is now making an Stretch Ribbon that might be a great choice for those skittish about misplacing the elastic band around the ankle. Because the whole ribbon is elasticized, you can't really go wrong.
Sewing Placement
Sewing everything on the inside of the shoe gives the neatest appearance, so start there. Ribbons and the front part of criss-crossed elastics should be sewn either behind, at, or in front of the side seam, depending on the shoe. The placement should serve to pull the shoe to the arch of the foot, while keeping the most flattering line across the top of the foot. Stitches can go through the inside of the canvas lining, but should not be visible on the exterior satin side quarters. If sewing through both sides, try to follow the line of the stitches already present on the casing, but be careful not to sew through the middle of the casing, as this will prevent the drawstring from serving it's function. I recommend not tightening the drawstring until you are finished sewing; this will keep the fabric from bunching and make your job easier. Make sure that the elastic lays flat across your foot, with no gaps. You will most likely want to sew it on a slight angle to feel really tailored around the top of your arch.
Breaking Shoes In
Let's save this one for the first day of class, where I will show everyone mild ways to make their first pair of shoes more comfortable. I don't want to risk someone taking it too far and rendering a pair of $70 shoes useless. I will post a break-in and preservation guide in the near future.
Padding
Toe pads should go under the tights whenever possible. This helps hold the padding in place, and allows the foot to more easily go into the shoe. Transition tights make dressing feet for pointe a whole lot easier.
Elastic and Ribbons
Elastic should be 3/4" wide. Dancewear stores will typically give you enough to sew one elastic per shoe, unless you specify that you wish to "criss-cross" your elastics, in which case, you'll need double the amount.
Criss-crossing can help if you find that the heel of the shoe is slipping off with only one. Be advised that dance elastic is much stronger than what you will find at your local fabric store, and more readily comes in pointe shoe-appropriate colors. Melting the edges of your cut elastics will prevent fabric fraying, but don't let the elastic actually touch the flame--burnt elastic smells pretty nasty. Freed European Pink Elastic is my personal favorite, because I like my elastic strong, and it matches the peach color of most brands of professional mesh tights. There are many other equally excellent options out there, so check them out, as well.
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| Bunheads Flexers® |
Ribbons can be shiny, matte, elasticized--my only preference is that they are 1" wide. Some dancers like to use the same brand of ribbon as their shoes, which often is a good color match. You will want to cut the ribbon into four equal pieces, and melt the ends before you sew them near the side-seam of your shoe. Again, my personal choice is Freed European Pink Ribbon. I like the matte color, and the fabric is nice quality.
For those with short Achilles tendons, it is recommended that you try ribbons that have a little give in them. Examples of these are Bloch Elastorib, Bunheads Flexers, etc. Prima Soft is now making an Stretch Ribbon that might be a great choice for those skittish about misplacing the elastic band around the ankle. Because the whole ribbon is elasticized, you can't really go wrong.
Sewing Placement
Sewing everything on the inside of the shoe gives the neatest appearance, so start there. Ribbons and the front part of criss-crossed elastics should be sewn either behind, at, or in front of the side seam, depending on the shoe. The placement should serve to pull the shoe to the arch of the foot, while keeping the most flattering line across the top of the foot. Stitches can go through the inside of the canvas lining, but should not be visible on the exterior satin side quarters. If sewing through both sides, try to follow the line of the stitches already present on the casing, but be careful not to sew through the middle of the casing, as this will prevent the drawstring from serving it's function. I recommend not tightening the drawstring until you are finished sewing; this will keep the fabric from bunching and make your job easier. Make sure that the elastic lays flat across your foot, with no gaps. You will most likely want to sew it on a slight angle to feel really tailored around the top of your arch.Breaking Shoes InLet's save this one for the first day of class, where I will show everyone mild ways to make their first pair of shoes more comfortable. I don't want to risk someone taking it too far and rendering a pair of $70 shoes useless. I will post a break-in and preservation guide in the near future.
Padding
Toe pads should go under the tights whenever possible. This helps hold the padding in place, and allows the foot to more easily go into the shoe. Transition tights make dressing feet for pointe a whole lot easier.
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